David Icke- Humans transform to Reptiles
Saturday, December 27th, 2008babylonsfalling asked:
David Icke speaking of “shape-shifting”
CASSESE
Archive for the ‘Reptiles’ Category
reptiles?
Saturday, November 1st, 2008
killaking asked:
what reptiles would you recommend getting for a 10 gallon or a 30 gallon tank? i already have 2 leo geckos, a beardy, and a red tail boa.
JOPLING
what reptiles would you recommend getting for a 10 gallon or a 30 gallon tank? i already have 2 leo geckos, a beardy, and a red tail boa.
JOPLING
How to Give Medicine to Your Reptile With the Least Pain (for Both of You!)
Wednesday, October 22nd, 2008
Paul Kramer asked:
Giving medication to reptiles can be “pretty slippery”. With their varied physiological and anatomical make-ups, choosing ‘routes of drug administration’ is fairly complicated. Having to deal with scales, teeth, and a cranky attitude makes reptile medication a daunting task for a newbie.
There are specific techniques that may be used in treating a sick reptile with drugs. Each form of reptile medication has pros and cons that should be painstakingly considered as not to give the reptile more pain.
Administering fluids or any reptile medication through the mouth is tricky since you’ll have to deal with the sharp teeth, possibly venom, and the highly sensitive glottis. Also, any reptile (even any human!) does not appreciate having some foreign object shoved up its throat and thus may be quite uncooperative. They tend to acquire a more crabby temper when sick, too. Usually, a catheter or feeding tube attached to a syringe with prepared slurry or fluid medication is inserted into the throat up to the stomach to avoid flooding into the glottis and causing the fluid to back up into the mouth.
If delivering drugs orally is too difficult and risky, an alternative reptile medication would be by injection. There are various types of injection: intraocoelomic/intraperitoneal (IC/IP), subcutaneous (SQ), and intramuscular (IM). These involve body cavities, loose skin, and muscles, respectively. When fluids are injected directly into the body cavity, they are more quickly absorbed and more can be administered at one time than when giving fluids orally or by SC. The catch is one needs to be extremely cautious since when done incorrectly, an organ can be damaged.
The sites on which to inject must be chosen carefully even for SQ and IM injections to prevent hurting the reptile unnecessarily. For SQ in particular, having to inject just under the skin would often require injecting repeatedly in different parts of the reptile’s body to administer the sufficient dosage. After suffering a shot once, the reptile most likely will try to repel any more so it has to be quick.
When handling injections for reptile medication, one should at least have experience in handling needles so as to avoid getting a taste of his own medicine– literally!
Reptile keepers should be meticulous in choosing the most (or the only) appropriate type of reptile medication. For instance, IM is not suited to chameleons’ very thin, poorly muscled legs. It is less tedious to inject the drug in a venomous snake’s body than venture into its mouth. As for a 2000-pound crocodile with an ornery disposition, it’s wiser to conceal the medication in a chunk of food.
Wrapping the oral medicine in an inconspicuous, delectable package is more effective with less amount of food used. Food is said to interfere with the uptake of the reptile medication, so this method should be considered a last recourse. All things considered, it’s vital to have proper background and know-how in treating reptiles. The end goal in reptile medication is not to bring more stress but relief.
SECRIST
Giving medication to reptiles can be “pretty slippery”. With their varied physiological and anatomical make-ups, choosing ‘routes of drug administration’ is fairly complicated. Having to deal with scales, teeth, and a cranky attitude makes reptile medication a daunting task for a newbie.
There are specific techniques that may be used in treating a sick reptile with drugs. Each form of reptile medication has pros and cons that should be painstakingly considered as not to give the reptile more pain.
Administering fluids or any reptile medication through the mouth is tricky since you’ll have to deal with the sharp teeth, possibly venom, and the highly sensitive glottis. Also, any reptile (even any human!) does not appreciate having some foreign object shoved up its throat and thus may be quite uncooperative. They tend to acquire a more crabby temper when sick, too. Usually, a catheter or feeding tube attached to a syringe with prepared slurry or fluid medication is inserted into the throat up to the stomach to avoid flooding into the glottis and causing the fluid to back up into the mouth.
If delivering drugs orally is too difficult and risky, an alternative reptile medication would be by injection. There are various types of injection: intraocoelomic/intraperitoneal (IC/IP), subcutaneous (SQ), and intramuscular (IM). These involve body cavities, loose skin, and muscles, respectively. When fluids are injected directly into the body cavity, they are more quickly absorbed and more can be administered at one time than when giving fluids orally or by SC. The catch is one needs to be extremely cautious since when done incorrectly, an organ can be damaged.
The sites on which to inject must be chosen carefully even for SQ and IM injections to prevent hurting the reptile unnecessarily. For SQ in particular, having to inject just under the skin would often require injecting repeatedly in different parts of the reptile’s body to administer the sufficient dosage. After suffering a shot once, the reptile most likely will try to repel any more so it has to be quick.
When handling injections for reptile medication, one should at least have experience in handling needles so as to avoid getting a taste of his own medicine– literally!
Reptile keepers should be meticulous in choosing the most (or the only) appropriate type of reptile medication. For instance, IM is not suited to chameleons’ very thin, poorly muscled legs. It is less tedious to inject the drug in a venomous snake’s body than venture into its mouth. As for a 2000-pound crocodile with an ornery disposition, it’s wiser to conceal the medication in a chunk of food.
Wrapping the oral medicine in an inconspicuous, delectable package is more effective with less amount of food used. Food is said to interfere with the uptake of the reptile medication, so this method should be considered a last recourse. All things considered, it’s vital to have proper background and know-how in treating reptiles. The end goal in reptile medication is not to bring more stress but relief.
SECRIST
Los Reptiles - Primera parte
Sunday, September 21st, 2008euyinTube asked:
Ideal para estudiar las características de estos animales vertebrados.
EBY
Gliding reptiles
Sunday, September 21st, 2008bocabertamix asked:
Amazing gliding reptiles.
ALVAREZ
Do reptiles carry a bacteria that is dangerous to infants?
Monday, September 15th, 2008
ennazus asked:
I have heard that some reptiles carry a recessive strain of sceptacemia which isnt harmful to most people but c an be dangerous for young babies or those with immune deficiencies. I am considering getting an iguana but im a childminder and i dont want to endanger any of the young children i care for. Would simply not allowing them to handle the iguana and washing my own hands after touching it be enough to ensure this or is there a greater risk that i am unaware of? Thanks
SLEVIN
I have heard that some reptiles carry a recessive strain of sceptacemia which isnt harmful to most people but c an be dangerous for young babies or those with immune deficiencies. I am considering getting an iguana but im a childminder and i dont want to endanger any of the young children i care for. Would simply not allowing them to handle the iguana and washing my own hands after touching it be enough to ensure this or is there a greater risk that i am unaware of? Thanks
SLEVIN
Responsible Reptile Owners
Saturday, September 13th, 2008
Luis Castanedo asked:
This leads to problems for both humans and ultimately the reptiles themselves. More often than not, people purchase reptiles for the wrong reasons. They often purchase on impulse or because they think it will make them look cool amongst their friends.
Your decision to purchase any reptile must not be taken lightly. A reptile in captivity depends on its owner completely. Unable to care for itself, it is at the mercy of the caregiver and without the proper care, can lead to health problems and even death.
To neglect responsibility as an owner can mean torture for your newly acquired reptile. If you think a reptile is incapable of emotion, maybe you should refrain from acquiring any pet. Remember, there is still the element of pain and suffering to be considered should it be neglected.
Any living being deserves the right to obtain the best care possible, especially one held in captivity. The environment you provide your reptile must closely resemble the natural area in which they are found in the wild.
If you decide to give your pet away or sell because it was not right for you, please make sure the person receiving the reptile has proper knowledge of what it takes to care for and shelter the animal.
Reptiles make fascinating pets. The experience can be rewarding and educational. The responsibility lies in the hands of the owner. If you want a fulfilling and long lasting experience as a reptile owner, take the time and make the effort to learn about what’s involved before you purchase or accept a reptile.
Anyone thinking about keeping reptiles must consider these factors:
1. Why do I want to keep reptiles?
2. How much room do you have to house your new reptile?
3. What environment does the reptile come from?
4. What size reptile will you be comfortable keeping?
5. Are you after something visually eye catching?
6. How much money are you willing to spend?
The next decision you must make is where to purchase your reptile from. As a purchaser you have several options and again this is a vital step in your decision making. If you choose a reputable pet shop, don’t count on their expertise. While they may sell reptiles they may not have the experience to give you the required information. In some instances they are unfortunately sold merely as profit pieces.
It’s often a wonder they even made it to the pet shop in one piece and alive. Exotic pet sales have gone through the roof, so many of these wonderful creatures are handled wrong right from the start. It pays to research how a healthy reptile should look before you make the commitment to purchase. Just having a license to sell a reptile does not make the management responsible people with consciences.
One of the best choices you have is to purchase from a breeder. Visit several and ask questions. No question is a silly question. Ask to see if they keep records. If you are purchasing young reptiles, make sure they are eating before taking them home. Make sure they are not too thin; this could be a sign of bad health. Ask if you can handle your reptile. Make sure they are lively and moving freely.
If you are not 100% sure do not make the purchase. Take your time.
Remember, a responsible pet owner is not just someone who loves animals. It’s someone who makes the effort to care for the animals properly. There are many well-meaning people who call themselves animal lovers and still don’t have what it takes to be the right caregiver for reptiles. You may be the perfect match for a dog and far from the perfect match for a turtle, snake or a lizard! Know your limits before you commit.
BRINEY
This leads to problems for both humans and ultimately the reptiles themselves. More often than not, people purchase reptiles for the wrong reasons. They often purchase on impulse or because they think it will make them look cool amongst their friends.
Your decision to purchase any reptile must not be taken lightly. A reptile in captivity depends on its owner completely. Unable to care for itself, it is at the mercy of the caregiver and without the proper care, can lead to health problems and even death.
To neglect responsibility as an owner can mean torture for your newly acquired reptile. If you think a reptile is incapable of emotion, maybe you should refrain from acquiring any pet. Remember, there is still the element of pain and suffering to be considered should it be neglected.
Any living being deserves the right to obtain the best care possible, especially one held in captivity. The environment you provide your reptile must closely resemble the natural area in which they are found in the wild.
If you decide to give your pet away or sell because it was not right for you, please make sure the person receiving the reptile has proper knowledge of what it takes to care for and shelter the animal.
Reptiles make fascinating pets. The experience can be rewarding and educational. The responsibility lies in the hands of the owner. If you want a fulfilling and long lasting experience as a reptile owner, take the time and make the effort to learn about what’s involved before you purchase or accept a reptile.
Anyone thinking about keeping reptiles must consider these factors:
1. Why do I want to keep reptiles?
2. How much room do you have to house your new reptile?
3. What environment does the reptile come from?
4. What size reptile will you be comfortable keeping?
5. Are you after something visually eye catching?
6. How much money are you willing to spend?
The next decision you must make is where to purchase your reptile from. As a purchaser you have several options and again this is a vital step in your decision making. If you choose a reputable pet shop, don’t count on their expertise. While they may sell reptiles they may not have the experience to give you the required information. In some instances they are unfortunately sold merely as profit pieces.
It’s often a wonder they even made it to the pet shop in one piece and alive. Exotic pet sales have gone through the roof, so many of these wonderful creatures are handled wrong right from the start. It pays to research how a healthy reptile should look before you make the commitment to purchase. Just having a license to sell a reptile does not make the management responsible people with consciences.
One of the best choices you have is to purchase from a breeder. Visit several and ask questions. No question is a silly question. Ask to see if they keep records. If you are purchasing young reptiles, make sure they are eating before taking them home. Make sure they are not too thin; this could be a sign of bad health. Ask if you can handle your reptile. Make sure they are lively and moving freely.
If you are not 100% sure do not make the purchase. Take your time.
Remember, a responsible pet owner is not just someone who loves animals. It’s someone who makes the effort to care for the animals properly. There are many well-meaning people who call themselves animal lovers and still don’t have what it takes to be the right caregiver for reptiles. You may be the perfect match for a dog and far from the perfect match for a turtle, snake or a lizard! Know your limits before you commit.
BRINEY
All About Reptile Supplies
Sunday, September 7th, 2008
David H. Urmann asked:
Reptiles are very popular pets these days. Unlike the usual cats and dogs, reptiles need more supplies in order to sustain their growth. There are various reptile supplies you can get from pet shops.
Reptiles are cold-blooded animals that are covered in scales. They are called “tetrapods” which means that they have descended from animals with four legs or limbs. They are also called “amniotes’ for they are surrounded by an amniotic fluid membrane. Having a reptile pet is a lot of work. Owners must provide their pets with their most adequate needs. Thus, they need to buy certain supplies that are of high quality and usefulness.
Listed below are some of the common reptile supplies:
? Metal Scoop: This is the perfect utensil for cleaning terrarium. This durable utensil with comfort grasp plastic handles is great for fine substrates. Its comfortable angled size makes it easy to use for reaching some debris.
? T-Rex Calci -Sand Cage: This fine granular cage is specially designed for reptile pets such as lizards, snakes, turtles, and tortoises. It is safe for direct contact with heating elements. The cage is easy to maintain and quick to clean. It comes with a bundle for damp waste materials as well as for preventing overflow.
? Reptile Aqualight UV Fixture 24 inches: The low profile and compact design of this UV light is about 65 watts and 7% UVB florescent. It is prepared with modern black aluminum housing plus an optimal lighting that is highly-polished for the reflector. This florescent lamp provides natural daylight and a full-spectrum of high-UV production.
? Temperature and Humidity Gauges: This beautiful temperature and humidity gauge is the most significant device in keeping reptiles healthy. It is also essential for creating a truly best environment for reptile homes.
? Aquatic Forceps: This stainless made forceps is perfect for reptiles like the aquatic turtle, water reptile, and grass type reptile. The textured shank of the forceps make it easy to use when wet. It is also made form non-rusting steel.
? Hemostats: The stainless steel hemostat is for hand-feeding or for preparing food for reptiles. Its long jaw and non-slip lock is used for easily preparing food.
? Reptile Handling Hook: This hook is useful for controlling aggressive, more agile and larger snakes. This adjustable hook is intended for moving lightweight and smaller snakes. The Collapsible hook is used for cases such as backpacking or traveling.
? Meal Feeding Dishes: This food bowl is specially designed for feeding pet reptiles. The food bowl has a space at the terrarium via fitting into cage corners. It is usually set in front so that the pets may easily reach their cooked meals. Reptile pets must eat all-natural food.
? Zoo Med Tortoise Food: High fiber food scientifically makes for land reptiles. Food must contain the right levels of protein and fiber in order to promote regular growth and shell development. Plus, it helps prevent the so-called tendency of “shell pyramiding”. Thus, it also adds minerals and vitamins in order to keep the reptiles healthy and normal.
? Tetra ReptoFilter: This unique styled filtration keeps the terrarium and its water clear, odor-free and clean. This filter has an adjustable button for low or high water levels. It also has good quality, especially for removing discoloration, ammonia, and debris from reptile terrariums.
? Reptile Cage: This cage comes with a florescent lamp and Pro Heat Panel. The prototype design of this cage is perfect for lizards as well as snakes. It also has PVC inside, along with air ventilation and stand moisture.
? Repti Temperature Rheostat: This rheostat temperature adjusts most of non-thermostatically heating devices. It connects up to 3 compatible heating devices, along with combined wattage of around 140 up to 150 watts. Usage of the Repti temperature rheostats go well with rock heaters, ceramic heaters, and tank heaters.
? Safety Iguanas Collar: This complete adjustable collar will not bind nor slip. It is made from nylon material. The iguana leash can also be used for puppies, rabbits, ferrets and cats. The collar is washable.
? Wardley Tank Neutralizer: The tank neutralizer is used in dissolving acid water. Plus it is equipped for conditioning the terrarium water. It also has calcium acid so as to prevent the softness of shells in turtles.
? Reptile Hand Gloves: This device is used in order to eliminate fears about bites and minor scratches. It is also a protection when handling a reptile while transferring it from its cage.
? Analog Thermometer USR: This analog thermometer is equipped with three sided adhesive tapes for easy connection. It measures the temperature of the terrarium. The measurement range is from 30 up to 45 degrees Celsius.
? Zoo Med Blue Daylight Reptile Bulb: It is a perfect bulb that faces the light hoods. This bulb provides UVA that promotes the normal nutrition of the reptile. The electricity consumed normally runs from 65 up to 110 watts.
MCBRIDE
Reptiles are very popular pets these days. Unlike the usual cats and dogs, reptiles need more supplies in order to sustain their growth. There are various reptile supplies you can get from pet shops.
Reptiles are cold-blooded animals that are covered in scales. They are called “tetrapods” which means that they have descended from animals with four legs or limbs. They are also called “amniotes’ for they are surrounded by an amniotic fluid membrane. Having a reptile pet is a lot of work. Owners must provide their pets with their most adequate needs. Thus, they need to buy certain supplies that are of high quality and usefulness.
Listed below are some of the common reptile supplies:
? Metal Scoop: This is the perfect utensil for cleaning terrarium. This durable utensil with comfort grasp plastic handles is great for fine substrates. Its comfortable angled size makes it easy to use for reaching some debris.
? T-Rex Calci -Sand Cage: This fine granular cage is specially designed for reptile pets such as lizards, snakes, turtles, and tortoises. It is safe for direct contact with heating elements. The cage is easy to maintain and quick to clean. It comes with a bundle for damp waste materials as well as for preventing overflow.
? Reptile Aqualight UV Fixture 24 inches: The low profile and compact design of this UV light is about 65 watts and 7% UVB florescent. It is prepared with modern black aluminum housing plus an optimal lighting that is highly-polished for the reflector. This florescent lamp provides natural daylight and a full-spectrum of high-UV production.
? Temperature and Humidity Gauges: This beautiful temperature and humidity gauge is the most significant device in keeping reptiles healthy. It is also essential for creating a truly best environment for reptile homes.
? Aquatic Forceps: This stainless made forceps is perfect for reptiles like the aquatic turtle, water reptile, and grass type reptile. The textured shank of the forceps make it easy to use when wet. It is also made form non-rusting steel.
? Hemostats: The stainless steel hemostat is for hand-feeding or for preparing food for reptiles. Its long jaw and non-slip lock is used for easily preparing food.
? Reptile Handling Hook: This hook is useful for controlling aggressive, more agile and larger snakes. This adjustable hook is intended for moving lightweight and smaller snakes. The Collapsible hook is used for cases such as backpacking or traveling.
? Meal Feeding Dishes: This food bowl is specially designed for feeding pet reptiles. The food bowl has a space at the terrarium via fitting into cage corners. It is usually set in front so that the pets may easily reach their cooked meals. Reptile pets must eat all-natural food.
? Zoo Med Tortoise Food: High fiber food scientifically makes for land reptiles. Food must contain the right levels of protein and fiber in order to promote regular growth and shell development. Plus, it helps prevent the so-called tendency of “shell pyramiding”. Thus, it also adds minerals and vitamins in order to keep the reptiles healthy and normal.
? Tetra ReptoFilter: This unique styled filtration keeps the terrarium and its water clear, odor-free and clean. This filter has an adjustable button for low or high water levels. It also has good quality, especially for removing discoloration, ammonia, and debris from reptile terrariums.
? Reptile Cage: This cage comes with a florescent lamp and Pro Heat Panel. The prototype design of this cage is perfect for lizards as well as snakes. It also has PVC inside, along with air ventilation and stand moisture.
? Repti Temperature Rheostat: This rheostat temperature adjusts most of non-thermostatically heating devices. It connects up to 3 compatible heating devices, along with combined wattage of around 140 up to 150 watts. Usage of the Repti temperature rheostats go well with rock heaters, ceramic heaters, and tank heaters.
? Safety Iguanas Collar: This complete adjustable collar will not bind nor slip. It is made from nylon material. The iguana leash can also be used for puppies, rabbits, ferrets and cats. The collar is washable.
? Wardley Tank Neutralizer: The tank neutralizer is used in dissolving acid water. Plus it is equipped for conditioning the terrarium water. It also has calcium acid so as to prevent the softness of shells in turtles.
? Reptile Hand Gloves: This device is used in order to eliminate fears about bites and minor scratches. It is also a protection when handling a reptile while transferring it from its cage.
? Analog Thermometer USR: This analog thermometer is equipped with three sided adhesive tapes for easy connection. It measures the temperature of the terrarium. The measurement range is from 30 up to 45 degrees Celsius.
? Zoo Med Blue Daylight Reptile Bulb: It is a perfect bulb that faces the light hoods. This bulb provides UVA that promotes the normal nutrition of the reptile. The electricity consumed normally runs from 65 up to 110 watts.
MCBRIDE
Brian Eno - Sombre Reptiles
Wednesday, May 21st, 2008entropious88 asked:
Since hearing this classic almost thirty years ago - I had always envisioned traversing through a jungle-like environment. This is as close to a jungle I can get at the present. The scene is a seven foot natural archway over the trail in Komoka Park, Ontario. To view the flora and fauna of this area please go to:
http://www.myspace.com/entropious88
SCIARRA
Your First Reptile? Here is the Top Three
Friday, May 2nd, 2008
Gen Wright asked:
Reptiles are now more popular than dogs as pets, a fact that appeared as a result of a survey carried out in early 2008. guess the most popular reptiles reptile pets. Like many things pet related, you need to make the right choice, and just as choosing a badly suited breed of dog can cause problems, the same is true of reptiles.
The easiest to care for tend to be the most popular also, and as such are great first reptiles, so here they are:-
Bearded Dragon
Bearded Dragon is the name used for any agamid lizard in the genus Pogona. They are native to Australia, and are sometimes the first reptile people get as pets.
Bearded Dragons are popular pets, notably the species Inland or Central Bearded Dragon. These reptiles are also affectionately called “Beardies” by those who breed or raise them. They are a ideally suited to children, because of their friendly and calm nature, along with the low amount of work they need to be cared for.
They have broad triangular heads and flatish bodies, the adults can grow to approximately 18 to 24 inches from head to tail with males and females being of comparable size, although males usually sport a bigger head and a thicker tail base than the females.
They have a distinctive set of spines running horizontally from the head to the base of the tail. They range in colour from light tan to dark brown, depending on their native soil, often with highlights of black, brilliant red, or gold, and can change greatly depending upon their internal condition, mood or temperature darkening when cool. Some spefically hand reared have been selectively bred for more brilliant colorations.
They are omnivorous, capable of living on a wide variety of food sources, including both insects and vegetable food. A typical diet for captive beardies includes leafy greens and vegetables, and regular meals of feeder insects.
All species are from Australia, but they have been exported the world over and bred successfully in captivity. They live about 8?15 years with proper care in captivity, though some can live up to 20 years old
Corn Snake
The corn snake, or red rat snake, is a North American species of rat snake that subdue their small prey with constriction. The name “corn snake” comes from the fact that they have markings on their underside that looks like corn. They are found throughout the south-eastern and central United States. Their placid nature, reluctance to bite, moderate adult size 1.2 to 1.8 metres, attractive markings, and comparatively simple care make them popular pet snakes. In the wild, they usually live around 10-15 years, but can live as old as 23 years in captivity. Like all rat snakes, corn snakes are non-venomous.
They have a diet mostly consisting of rodents, mostly mice and rats, which they kill via constriction. They are proficient climbers and may climb trees in search of birds and bats. Pet Corn Snakes are usually fed by their owners on a diet of easily available rodents, mostly mice, while younger and smaller animals may eat live or dead rat or mouse pups of various sizes. Frozen mice are ideal, as live prey can have the potential to carry disease or injure the snake if it has not been raised on live prey.
The Corn Snake was one of the first snakes to be kept as pets by people, and is still one of the most popular. Large numbers are bred yearly to ensure that there is a large enough supply base, lowering the need to collect specimens from the wild. keeping in groups is inadvisable in captivity, as these are naturally solitary animals.
breeders of Corn Snakes have stressed the need for a housing with no chance of escape. Corn Snakes are top drawerescapees and will often find a way to escape from any place that is not properly suitable. More newbies lose their snakes to escapes than death. They are good at climbing, squeezing out of the smallest of holes, and can also use their bodies to force the screen top off of a poorly-fitted aquarium.
Royal or Ball Python
The Royal Python or Python Regius is a non-poisonous python species native to Africa. This is the smallest of the African pythons and is popular in the pet trade. Adults normally do not grow to more than 90-120 cm in length, although some specimens have reached 152 cm and even 182 cm, around 6ft, but this is very rare. The build is thinck while the head is relatively small and the scales are smooth.
The colour pattern is typically black with light brown-green side and spinal blotches. The stomach is a white or cream that may or may not include scattered black markings. However, pet industry breeders have, through selective breeding, developed many mutations with altered colours and patterns.
The name ball python is gained from the animal’s tendency to curl into a ball when stressed or frightened. The name royal python is believed to be from the story that Cleopatra allegedly wore the snake around her wrist.
In the wild, the diet consists mostly of small rats mice and shrews. Younger animals have also been known to feed on birds. Pets usually do well on domestic rats and mice, either live, pre-killed, or frozen-thawed
There are of course many more reptile breeds kept as pets, and no doubt popularity will change, but any of the three named above will make great pets, and a great introduction to keeping reptiles.
SKELLY
Reptiles are now more popular than dogs as pets, a fact that appeared as a result of a survey carried out in early 2008. guess the most popular reptiles reptile pets. Like many things pet related, you need to make the right choice, and just as choosing a badly suited breed of dog can cause problems, the same is true of reptiles.
The easiest to care for tend to be the most popular also, and as such are great first reptiles, so here they are:-
Bearded Dragon
Bearded Dragon is the name used for any agamid lizard in the genus Pogona. They are native to Australia, and are sometimes the first reptile people get as pets.
Bearded Dragons are popular pets, notably the species Inland or Central Bearded Dragon. These reptiles are also affectionately called “Beardies” by those who breed or raise them. They are a ideally suited to children, because of their friendly and calm nature, along with the low amount of work they need to be cared for.
They have broad triangular heads and flatish bodies, the adults can grow to approximately 18 to 24 inches from head to tail with males and females being of comparable size, although males usually sport a bigger head and a thicker tail base than the females.
They have a distinctive set of spines running horizontally from the head to the base of the tail. They range in colour from light tan to dark brown, depending on their native soil, often with highlights of black, brilliant red, or gold, and can change greatly depending upon their internal condition, mood or temperature darkening when cool. Some spefically hand reared have been selectively bred for more brilliant colorations.
They are omnivorous, capable of living on a wide variety of food sources, including both insects and vegetable food. A typical diet for captive beardies includes leafy greens and vegetables, and regular meals of feeder insects.
All species are from Australia, but they have been exported the world over and bred successfully in captivity. They live about 8?15 years with proper care in captivity, though some can live up to 20 years old
Corn Snake
The corn snake, or red rat snake, is a North American species of rat snake that subdue their small prey with constriction. The name “corn snake” comes from the fact that they have markings on their underside that looks like corn. They are found throughout the south-eastern and central United States. Their placid nature, reluctance to bite, moderate adult size 1.2 to 1.8 metres, attractive markings, and comparatively simple care make them popular pet snakes. In the wild, they usually live around 10-15 years, but can live as old as 23 years in captivity. Like all rat snakes, corn snakes are non-venomous.
They have a diet mostly consisting of rodents, mostly mice and rats, which they kill via constriction. They are proficient climbers and may climb trees in search of birds and bats. Pet Corn Snakes are usually fed by their owners on a diet of easily available rodents, mostly mice, while younger and smaller animals may eat live or dead rat or mouse pups of various sizes. Frozen mice are ideal, as live prey can have the potential to carry disease or injure the snake if it has not been raised on live prey.
The Corn Snake was one of the first snakes to be kept as pets by people, and is still one of the most popular. Large numbers are bred yearly to ensure that there is a large enough supply base, lowering the need to collect specimens from the wild. keeping in groups is inadvisable in captivity, as these are naturally solitary animals.
breeders of Corn Snakes have stressed the need for a housing with no chance of escape. Corn Snakes are top drawerescapees and will often find a way to escape from any place that is not properly suitable. More newbies lose their snakes to escapes than death. They are good at climbing, squeezing out of the smallest of holes, and can also use their bodies to force the screen top off of a poorly-fitted aquarium.
Royal or Ball Python
The Royal Python or Python Regius is a non-poisonous python species native to Africa. This is the smallest of the African pythons and is popular in the pet trade. Adults normally do not grow to more than 90-120 cm in length, although some specimens have reached 152 cm and even 182 cm, around 6ft, but this is very rare. The build is thinck while the head is relatively small and the scales are smooth.
The colour pattern is typically black with light brown-green side and spinal blotches. The stomach is a white or cream that may or may not include scattered black markings. However, pet industry breeders have, through selective breeding, developed many mutations with altered colours and patterns.
The name ball python is gained from the animal’s tendency to curl into a ball when stressed or frightened. The name royal python is believed to be from the story that Cleopatra allegedly wore the snake around her wrist.
In the wild, the diet consists mostly of small rats mice and shrews. Younger animals have also been known to feed on birds. Pets usually do well on domestic rats and mice, either live, pre-killed, or frozen-thawed
There are of course many more reptile breeds kept as pets, and no doubt popularity will change, but any of the three named above will make great pets, and a great introduction to keeping reptiles.
SKELLY